I allowed myself a few days to recover from the trek, despite having felt far more sore the day after a dodgeball tournament then tramping around in the mountains. I gave up my Super Deluxe room at the Snowland Hotel ($25/night, complete with balcony overlooking the lake), for a more affordable room with bath at the Yeti Guest House ($6/night).

Pokhara, Nepal is a mecca for paragliders and I'd noticed them on a daily basis since arriving. It cost $95 USD for a 30-minute flight over the valley. I signed up for a morning group, though by the time we had taken the 30-minute jeep ride up Sarangkot mountain, clouds had descended over most of the peaks behind us. Instead, we had breathtaking views of the green valley, Lake Phewa, and the city.

After reaching the pinnacle of physical fright in my life with the canyon swing in Queenstown, paragliding seemed like a walk in the park. All the pilots were of different nationalities. I was paired with a French guy. We made a little small talk, as did all the pairs, however we were soon just sitting around watching everyone take off before us. Last to launch, I received the bare minimum of instructions, and was soon running down the edge of the mountain until we took flight.

Himalayan eagles soared around us as we caught the thermals up and made swooping turns to the left and right going down. It took a few minutes to feel comfortable in the seated position, with nothing below you but the terraced farmland. At least with skydiving you know you're going straight down. Paragliding is all about staying aloft. I can't imagine a sensation closer to flying then being up there with the birds. It was fantastic.

Everyone is encouraged to take photos, so when I managed to get my camera out and start taking some, I lost track of shifting my weight with the pilot to help with the turns. He made a sarcastic remark about me not helping him out much so I apologized (given my life was in his hands) and put the camera away.

As we prepared to land I received the simple instructions for what to do - stand up and start running. And it was as easy as it sounds.

Never Ending Peace And Love

Perspectives from a first-time trekker on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek in the Himalaya of Nepal.

The Scenery

Hopefully, the photos I've posted speak volumes about the scenery. Words hardly do it justice, so I'm not going to try too hard.

Green forest valleys gave way to snow-covered mountains of the highest caliber.

Waking each morning to new and stunning views of the mountains with perfect blue skies in the background hardly felt real. It took me days to realize I was in the midst of such an experience.

Beautiful rhododendron flowers paint the sides of mountains in red and pink. Forests seem magical...rivers powerful...stone steps never-ending.

The smallest of flowers growing between the stone steps were as beautiful as the larger-than-life mountain views.

Watching the sunrise over the Annapurna range from Poon Hill was akin to walking into St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican City for the first time - a spiritual, awe-inspiring experience for even the non-spiritual among us.

People

The locals were warm and friendly, which continues to be a reason I enjoy spending time in Nepal.

Gela was an all-star trekking partner who indulged my desire to take silly photos all the time.  The other trekkers met along the way were also cool.

Our guide, Mohan, worked out well. At any given time, he was a masseuse, singer, dancer, magician, mathematician, comedian, and doctor.

Our porter, Nima, worked hard, kept a watchful eye on me when I needed it, and made the experience extra fun (especially toward the end when he'd enter the dining room after a few drinks).

Lessons Learned

Western companies and tour groups are not the way to go. Who wants to walk in such majestic places with a giant crowd of people no doubt talking to one and other all the time.

Support Nepali travel agencies, guides, and porters. It's cheaper and gives you a closer cultural connection.

It's as easy to hire a guide and porter for a trek in Nepal as it is to go skydiving in New Zealand. And there's no paperwork to sign!

Be clear about the goals of your trek when hiring a guide. If you want to be able to take your time, then stress that reaching base camp is not critical.

On the popular routes (Sanctuary, Circuit, Everest), guides and porters are not necessary. Take a book or a map; however, the maps and trails are so obvious it'd be hard to get lost.

If traveling during the high seasons, there are plenty of other trekkers to meet in advance or along the way, and guides are always around for you to ask questions (how far is it to X, what do you think the weather will be like today, etc.).

Prepare for all weather conditions. Ask, "what happens if I get caught in the rain my first day?"

At the same time, don't feel the need to bring an entire waterproof outfit, as you can usually do your walking in the mornings before it rains, and dry your wet clothes (or laundry) by the guest house stoves or heaters each night.

Layering is essential. I wore 1-4 layers at any given point in the day/night. It would be blisteringly hot under the sun at times, and cold in the evenings.

Invest in an authentic sleeping bag, and know how it performs in varying degrees of cold. I'd rather be too warm than too cold.

Gela was comfortable in her friend's real North Face -7 degree Celsius sleeping bag the whole time, even above 4,000 meters at ABC.

My fake -5 degree bag sucked balls, and I had to depend on guest house blankets and extra clothes (not a good feeling)

• Take your time. Walk slow, watch your steps - up and down. Use a walking stick for added support and balance.
• Greet the locals with "namaste."
• Drink water and eat snacks (chocolate, granola, etc.) at your rest stops. Drink and eat more than you think you need.
• Drink herbal teas and warm water.
• If you feel worried about the remoteness, the steepness of trails, the weather, the altitude, RELAX and try to stay in the moment, focusing on the scenery and people around you.
• Breathe evenly and deeply.
• Find food you like and eat a lot of it (stay consistent, trekking isn't the time to experiment).
• Establish an eating routine - eat the same meals each day (porridge w/apple for breakfast, pizza/noodles for lunch, dal bhat for dinner).
• Adding sugar to tea, water, and food is an excellent way to consume extra calories and gain quick energy.

Trekker Nationalities (met along the way)

1. German
2. Austrian
3. Dutch
4. English
5. Swiss
6. Estonian
7. French
8. Italian
9. Irish
10. Czech
11. American
12. Polish
13. Malaysian
14. South Korean
15. Israeli
16. Canadian
17. Thai
18. Japanese

Truly Final Thoughts

The difficulty of trekking in Nepal will depend on the person, route, time allowed, season, etc.

Having practically no outdoor experience myself, I found the first few days challenging - mentally and physically.

Yes, I tend to worry a bit in life, yet there's no getting around the fact that you quickly realize how much work it takes to travel 1...2...3 days into the mountains, let alone the logistics and effort of trying to get back out if you injure yourself, or mentally lose it.

Despite having hired a guide, I quickly found you need to look out for yourself first and foremost.

Still, on those days when I was waiting for Gela, I started to miss the routine of getting up early and hitting the trails.

We never stretched our legs before setting off - we just started walking. After a few days, your body seems to adapt.

There were as many trekkers in their 40's and 50's as there were in their 20's and 30's.

Despite all my concerns around Altitude Sickness, I never reached the heights where it became a significant concern.

Still, at certain heights, I was acutely aware of the extra effort and breathing it took to do seemingly easy things like going up and down a flight of stairs.

Usually, I was fine after a night's sleep, though. Guess I'll save my Diamox for the next mountain adventure.

 

At first flash of eden, we race down to the sea. Standing there on freedom's shore. Waiting for the sun. Can you feel it now that spring has come. And it's time to live in the scattered sun. Waiting for the sun. Waiting...

...This is the strangest life I've ever known. -- The Doors

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

3:20 pm - Ghorepani - Elev. 2,860 meters

In the morning, the view was foggy. We left Tadapani at 8am. I felt full of energy, while Gela had tape on her blistered feet and an Ace bandage around one knee. She felt and looked quite tired. It reminded me that I made the right decision, however it's still hard to let go of my chance to reach ABC. I guess it's not the end of the world.

As we walked to Deurali, we passed through gorgeous rhododendron forests with pink and white flowers. The forest felt magical - almost like "Lord of the Rings." After we descended the valley, we walked up along a stream past some cute goats and dogs.

We ate lunch in Deurali at an elevation of 3,000 meters! And we continued upward to about 3,200 meters at the top of the Deurali Pass (which was basically a forest along a mountain ridge). We stopped at a clearing and could see the lookout tower on Poon Hill on the mountain across from us.

We walked down to Ghorepani, reaching the "big" village just before it rained. The guest house is one of many, and the hall on the second floor is padded to ease the burden of blisters and walking after long treks. I took a lot of photos again, and will need to either delete some or be more judicious the last two days and nights.

The corn bread is really good. I bought Gela a small bracelet to help lift her spirits. I'll miss being able to spend time with her. She is always smiling and laughing.

 

The Evening

We had another nice night at Ghorepani, though we knocked off around 9pm as we had to wake at 4:45am to ascend Poon Hill for sunrise.

Estimated Distance = 6km

And if life is going by too fast...it's time for you to slow down...time for you to make it last...before you trip and slip...and you will miss this happy little stepping stone just before eternal bliss. -- Pennywise

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

4:28 pm - Tadapani - Elev. 2,630 meters

Around 5:45pm yesterday, Nima spotted Mohan and Gela coming down the hill to Chomrong. They looked very weary after the 11-hour walk down from Machhupuchhre Base Camp (MBC).

We were reunited after three days and got caught up. After dinner, I retired to bed around 8:30pm. I slept well. It was nice to share a room again.

In the morning, Gela and I talked further about our respective experiences and took our time eating and packing. We left 30 minutes late at 8:30am.

The walk to Tadapani meant descending a valley to our west, down to a river, and then climbing up another mountain through terraces of barely and the rhododendron forest. We reached Tadapani around 2pm, and as of yet, no rain. Nima thinks it'll just be a cold and cloudy night. In the morning, we walk to Ghorepani, before a sunrise at Poon Hill and our last night at Hile.

 

The Evening

I was very tired for the first few hours before dinner however it felt good to be at a table full of people. We ate and talked with a pair of Israeli trekkers, and a Canadian. Nima got drunk off the local liquor though we didn't see him actually drink it. Around 8:30pm, Mohan and another guide/porter started to sing Nepali songs for us. It was a very nice moment. Gela and I knocked off around 10pm. I slept well, only waking once or twice for a short time.

Estimated distance = 8 km

Got no deeds to do, No promises to keep.  I'm dappled and drowsy and ready to sleep.  Let the morning time drop all it's petals on me.  Life, I love you.  All is groovy.  -- Simon & Garfunkel

Monday, April 7, 2008

12:33 pm - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

 

I slept pretty well last night, though I think I had gas. Once I knocked off, I only awoke once due to a slight chill. Guessing asleep at 11am, up at 5:30am. The sky was clear blue, with the sun slowly rising in the east, illuminating Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli, Annapurna III, and Machhapuchhre.

After another breakfast of apple porridge, Nima and I headed down the mountain to the hot springs by the river below Jhinu danda which I skipped on the way up. It was relaxing with just the sound of the roaring river, and a sliver of Annapurna South to the north. We had the pool to ourself for 45 minutes.

The walk back up to Chomrong was tough. I took many breaks and went slow....slow. We basically climbed about 2,000 vertical feet in 1-1.5 hours. I've got a similar altitude to cover tomorrow over 5-6 hours. Gela is due back around 4-5pm I think. Hope she's good.

Estimated distance = 4 km

 

 

 It's a beautiful day...The sky falls...And you feel like it's a beautiful day...Don't let it get away.  -- U2

Sunday, April 6, 2008

8:18 am - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

I awoke around 1am last night, slightly chilly. I added my thin fleece and donned the warm wool mittens I had bought in Jhinu danda. I used the toilet, and unable to return to a slumber, began to hear a storm approach. Thunder roared through the valley, and with the electricity out, flashes of lightning were all that illuminated the landscape. Looking off the balcony - it was the darkest black I'd ever seen.

 

Stepping out of my room to try and record the sound meant ducking as a large bat spent the night flapping around up there. I tried to record the thunder on my camera. After the video session, I returned to bed, fell asleep and only awoke briefly at 5am. At 7:30am, I rose to continued rains - the first time we haven't had a crystal-clear blue sky to greet us.

It was nice to sleep in although Nima said it'll probably rain all day and the hot springs are too far a walk (3 hours return). That's OK, it feels warm and comfortable at the Himalayan View Guest House. I look up the valley from time to time and wonder how Gela is getting along - must be snowy at base camp.

After eating apple porridge and drinking a rich, tasty cup of milky hot chocolate, I feel good, stronger, more in the moment. I am looking forward to the second half of the trek at a slower pace.

8:05 pm

Potato curry and onion soup for dinner - a Twix for dessert. The storm clouds fully cleared out at sunset, exposing Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli, and at the very end of the light, Machhapuchhre. I knew this also meant a good night for stargazing. I clearly saw the Big Dipper over the valley to the northeast. Nima pointed out a shooting star to me. Amazing! Mohan and Gela are due back tomorrow afternoon. :)

Estimated Distance = 0km

 

Silent in the morning...Suspended in the trees...Lunchtime comes you've found your voice...It brings me to my knees...The volume just increases...The resounding echoes grow...Till once again I bask in morning stillness, I love so. -- Phish

Saturday, April 5, 2008

1:33 pm - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

Storm clouds are rolling in even earlier today. Just heard the first crack of thunder. I'm at the Himalaya View Guest House and Restaurant for the next three days. Nima set a good slow pace for me and we reached Chomrong in a little over 1.5 hours. Plenty of photo/rest stops. I enjoyed it quite a bit.

I just looked at a bunch of photos from a Polish couples trip to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). It looked awesome, yet I think I always saw such a destination as a bragging right, not necessarily a personal goal. I'll have no shortage of great photos either.

Just ate about 5 pieces of tomato/onion/cheese pizza for lunch. Very good - Nima waited until after I was done to take me up on my offer to help me finish it.

 

The Evening

The rest of the day was spent in a relaxed way. Around 6pm I went down to the restaurant and had chicken curry with rice and mint tea for dinner. A small group was there - 2 South Africans and a Canadian (Nancy) whose voice I'd heard in the room next to me earlier. I enjoyed their company and didn't read much of "The Snow Leopard," a book Nancy also had with her. They had completed the Circuit trek and were on there way to ABC. I think time constraints create a greater challenge as you have less flexibility with regard to weather, feeling unwell, and just taking your time to enjoy the scenery.

On this fifth day, I am now much more comfortable with the rhythm of trekking, and am confident I could make it to ABC on my own schedule/pace.

Estimated Distance = 3km

 

The more I see the less I know...The more I like to let it go...hey oh...whoaaa. Deep beneath the cover of another perfect wonder...Where it's so white as snow. Privately divided by a world so undecided...And there's nowhere to go. -- Red Hot Chili Peppers

Friday, April 4, 2008

2:09 pm - Sinuwa - Elev. 2,360 meters

Gela and Mohan had told me out in the sun that worrying in my mind can translate into trouble with my body. I knew they were right but it would've been hard to explain how much I felt I had already overcome in just making it to Sinuwa. I tried anyways and I think they understood. As 1:30 pm rolled around, Mohan came to my room.

I was very direct in how I felt. Revitalized...though no longer concerned with reaching Annapurna Base Camp (ABC, Elev. 4,000 meters). I would require more time than Gela could afford. As it turns out, 10 days is too quick for me. Later, Nima said I could make it in 12-13 days and I felt reassured by his confidence in me. And the same can be said for Gela who said I was no less athletic than any of the other trekkers around me (young and old). I took her words to heart yet as I lay in bed talking to Mohan, knew my mind was made up. If I continued, I'd risk further slowdowns in more remote elevations, and likely keep Gela from a chance to reach ABC. And for me and her, I made the right decision to stay put. I wanted to have fun on the trek, and instead I felt as though I kept learning hard lessons. And the Himalaya - highest mountain range in the world - is not the place to learn these lessons.

Practically speaking, I would've been better off with a shorter trek (as my first). Still, I was reminded of a saying I once read:

Aim for the stars because if you fall...You still land in the clouds.

So an alternative plan was established. Mohan and Gela would head further ahead to Doban for the night as planned - or stop early if caught in the rain, while continuing on to Annapurna Base Camp Saturday. They'd meet up with Nima and I in Chomrong on Monday afternoon. Once reunited, we'd head west to Ghorepani (Elev. 2,874 meters) - a village Mohan confidently said I could reach. Then, we would take in a sunrise from Poon Hill amidst some of the highest mountains in the world, before heading back to Pokhara over another few days.

On My Own

I spent the rest of the day taking it easy. Nima Sherapa (our porter) kept a watchful eye on me and I soon found he spoke quite good English so we had no difficulty communicating. I introduced myself to 5 young English guys in the room next door as they were playing some fun music. They also had a small wooden chess board from India and cards. They were quite funny - Dan (got drunk), Jake, Mark, and two others. They were heading to ABC but on their own schedule, taking care to avoid the afternoon rain/hail (as none of them had waterproof shoes). In fact, they were mostly accumulating souvenirs and warm wool clothes as they went. They made me laugh and feel comfortable so I spent most of my time with them. I found it hard to take the trek, or myself, too seriously thereafter.

For dinner, I ate garlic soup again (it's suppose to help with the altitude) and some spaghetti, though I should've forced myself to eat more of it. In bed later, my stomach gurgling for sustenance, I ate most of a rock-hard granola bar and Snickers. I only got about three hours of sleep - from about 2-5 am'ish. During what felt like a long night, I used the toilet twice, refilled my water bottle, listened to some music, listened to the English guy in the room next to me rustle about and fart (he couldn't sleep either). I was warm though - too warm - so I took off the long johns which were too tight around the waist anyways, and my heavy fleece. I tried my best to keep the thinking to a minimum - it was hard.

Estimated Distance = 5km

Oh I'd rather go and journey...Where the diamond crescent's glowing and...Run across the valley...Beneath the sacred mountain...And wander through the forest...Where the trees have leaves of prisms...And break the light in colors...That no-one knows the names of. -- The Byrds

Friday, April 4, 2008

2:09 pm - Sinuwa - Elev. 2,360 meters

At 1 am I awoke with uncontrollable shaking throughout my body. I felt cold but when I felt my skin it seemed warm and clammy. I changed into my thick fleece, put on socks, beanie, and gloves. And I turned around on the bed so my head was away from the window. After zipping up my sleeping bag all the way, I began to feel better, and the shaking/shivering ceased. During this time, I contemplated waking Gela, and trying to find our guide Mohan. The problem was I didn't know what room he was in to try and get a blanket. In the end, it was an experience in self-reliance and simple survival.

This morning I awoke at 5:45 am when Gela rose and said "wow" upon looking out the room's window. She didn't realize how close the mountains were to us. I managed myself out of bed to breakfast after a massive misfire on the first squat toilet I've needed to use in 10 years. Washing it down and cleaning up was surprisingly easy.

I had porridge and hot water again for breakfast. I still didn't have much of an appetite but it was tasty. I knew it was to be a tough day, and set off with the group in high spirits.

We ascended the steep section from Jhinu danda to Chomrong in about an hour's time. It was exasperating. It felt amazing to hike up to a point that seemed to simply tower over us the day before. We then headed down the mountain to cross the river and head back up more steep stone stairs to Sinuwa. Clouds were upon us and rain had begun to sprinkle down. It was cool.

The Turning Point

I was panting heavily by the time we stopped in the Sherpa Guest House in Sinuwa. I started to notice I remained winded, breathing heavily, well after everyone else was fine. I layed on a bench and my breathing relaxed a bit, but my arms and hands began to tingle (in a way I've never felt before). At first, I thought they fell asleep, however Mohan and Nima started to check my pulse, recognizing something was right. This action drew the attention of others in the restaurant. A group of older French women were also relaxing (on their way down from Annapurna Base Camp) and one of them called her friend Isabelle over, as she was a doctor.

Isabelle didn't speak fluent English, however she asked questions like how much I'd had to eat/drink, how I slept the prior night, if I had a headache. We took my temperature (with the thermometer I brought) and there was no fever. It didn't seem to be the altitude as I had no headache. Basically, she diagnosed me with exhaustion and not eating/drinking enough. Upon reflection, I ate far too little for the physical activity I was enduring, however this was much in part due to my Giardia/stomach problems. And what I was ordering - plain rice/potato curry/tomato soup - I wasn't eating a lot of.

Isabelle had me eat a recently bought Snickers and I started to consume garlic soup ordered earlier by Mohan. I slowly lost the tingling feeling in my arms and hands. Isabelle suggested I sit outside as the sun was shining after the short rain. The view was much better and the warm heat felt good. I stared south down the valley, trying to eat more plain rice and toast with jam (doctor's orders). Mohan poured out my water which I had messed with earlier by adding rehydration salts. I hadn't been drinking as much since it tasted so awful. One of the French women brought to my attention that the third day of a trek is notoriously hard, given the first day or two are often driven by adrenaline and a fresh body. She also said I was looking better than when she first saw me. Apparently my face and hands were pale white twenty minutes prior.

As I felt my energy return (especially after drinking a liter of boiled/filtered water), my thoughts turned to what would happen next. I deserved a piss. I followed Isabelle's instructions by taking a rest in one of the guest house beds for 30 minutes - a bit longer than suggested but it felt comfortable and safe.

Estimated distance = 5 km

___________________

Nurse Amy - I'm curious to hear if you have any thoughts on what might have been happing. I'm guessing low blood sugar and high blood pressure?

The river flows...It flows to the sea...Wherever that river goes...That's where I want to be...Flow river flow...Let your waters wash down...Take me from this road...To some other town. -- Roger McGuinn

Thursday, April 3, 2008

2:44 pm - Jhinu danda - Elev. 1, 745 meters

We awoke around 6 am to beautiful, clear views of Annapurna South (7,219 meters) and Hiun Chuli (6,441 meters).

It was chilly. Gela said she was coughing during the night however I was fast asleep.

I had porridge for breakfast with some hot water to drink. It was quite good. We left at 7:45 am.

From Tolka, we headed down to Landruk. We passed through Himalpani, arriving at Jhinu danda 30 minutes early at 11:30 am.

We passed over a few small bridges and two larger ones. The mighty Modi Khola roared below.

Despite starting and ending at about the same elevation, we went up and down quite a bit.

I went slower than the first day, taking special care on the descents to take smaller steps.

I was often at the tail end of our four-person crew. They were never far from sight though.

Despite walking along steep cliffs and up endless stone stairs, I found my rhythm.

The final ascent was exasperating. Aiming for Tibetan prayer flags that signaled rest kept me going.

Rain, hail, thunder, lightning, a rainbow. I feel like we've had a lot of time today to relax and recover. I need as much as possible.

Tomorrow is suppose to be a tough day. 6-7 hours of trekking some very steep mountain terrain.

And it is all the more important to start early to reach shelter before the weather turns bad.

The power just came back on!

That Evening

After the rain, Gela and I headed to the restaurant room where there was a large tour group taking up most of the space.

It reaffirmed for me that hiring a guide/porter was the right decision.

For many reasons: less costly, more flexible, more control (or so we thought on the last two points).

We chatted, read, ate, and drank ginger tea. Gela retired first. When I left for the room, I looked up and saw the most amazing stars.

Beautiful and clear like my first night in Tahiti.

I craned my neck skywards and slowly turned to take it all in.

The surrounding mountains were so high it was hard to tell where people's homes ended and the stars began.

After listening to some music, I knocked off as Gela did earlier.

Estimated distance = 7 km

'Twas in another lifetime, one of toil and blood...When blackness was a virtue and the road was full of mud...I came in from the wilderness, a creature void of form. "Come in," she said, "I'll give you shelter from the storm." -- Bob Dylan

Wednesday, April 2, 2008 9:43 am

We were dropped off at 1,220 meters and immediately climbed 320 meters in the first half hour.

10:07 am - Dhampus - Elev. 1,700 meters

Sun is intense. Sweating all down back. Beautiful.

11:48 am - Pothana - Elev. 2,000 meters

We have stopped for lunch in Pothana - Hotel Fishtail and Restaurant. Sounds include children playing, birds crowing, our food cooking, and the trickle of water from a tap by the hotel shower. A few Nepalis are playing a dice game nearby. Prayers fly off flags in the light breeze.

The morning hike was a rude awakening. Endless stone steps brought us past terraced farmland. Locals greeted us with "namaste" often. Red flowers of rhododendrons appeared. It is very pretty.

1:48 pm - Deurali - Elev. 2,150 meters

We have reached the high elevation of our trekking today. Large birds of prey circle the valley. A cool wind blows. A large prayer flag flutters. Rain and sun at the same time.

7 pm - Tolka - Elev. 1,785 meters

We sought shelter from rain at a Nepali home turned guest house. Sitting on the porch, damp and cool, rain turned to hail. Ox, chicken, dog, puppy, people, kids. All affected. On the next walk after a break in the weather, we got caught in another set of showers and hail, soaking my pants, socks, and sneakers. My rain jacket performed admirably, as did the North Fake short and long sleeve shirts, and my North Face fleece from China.

At about 1,900 meters, I surpassed my highest elevation to-date. I turned my right ankle though there was no pain. As the day drew long, I also felt some pain in my left knee. I slowed down my pace and held the (walking) stick in my left hand. After we reached our guest house, Mohan applied some Tiger Balm and massaged my leg. I didn't have an appetite - plain rice and tomato soup for dinner. I feel unbelievably tired. I want to sleep forever.

Most all of our clothes dried within a few hours by the wood stove. It is dark and peaceful.

Estimated distance = 11 km