Blog - Go Backpacking

Introducing "Dare Me!"

I saw that my life was a vast glowing empty page and I could do anything I wanted. "" Jack Kerouac

The Dream -

Traveling around the world has been a dream for me since I was laid off from my first post-college job in March 2002. It has taken me over 5 years to make it happen, and I am at once ridiculously excited about the possibilities, and a bit uneasy about this whole lack of a job and income idea that goes along with it.

Dare Me! Activity -

Dare me to do something funny, embarrassing, strange, adventurous or pedestrian.

Tell me about it by leaving a comment, or sending me a message, along with a suggested donation amount (and web address if you have one). If I accept, then I'll write about it, post pictures and/or video on the blog, and show my thanks by adding you to the Dare Me! page.

Here are a few ideas...

Visit a certain monument (beach, park, etc.)
Eat a strange food (insects, birds, brains, etc.)
Spend a day trying to get the phone number of a Parisian woman (note: this is hard enough when you speak the language!)
Obtain and mail a souvenir
Go 5 days without a shower (warning: this might happen without the dare)

To give you a sense of how fun this could be, check out "Challenge Steve" at the Savage Files. I learned about this site after I had already committed to the premise of using dares as a way to create interactivity with readers (and earn a little $).

Here are a few of Steve's challenges:

Take a photo of you AND Maria drinking a Fanta in front of the house where Freddie Mercury was born in Zanzibar. I just love Zanzibar, and I threw in the Fanta because it's really hot there and you'll be thirsty.
Reward= fifty US dollars
Status= pending...

Challenge for Morocco: Take a photo of you enjoying a glass of mint tea at a local hangout. Reward - US $10
Reward= ten US dollars
Status= COMPLETED!, and the funds have been put towards some hair restoration treatment!

Please note, you can submit your dares any time! Like Steve, I'll simply list them as "pending" until I make it to the appropriate part of the world. If a dare is completed, donations can easily be made via PayPal or credit/debit card using the "Make a Donation" button on the left sidebar.

Plotting A New Life Via Whiteboard

I've been using a whiteboard to schedule my life for about 7 years. I thought I'd share. Exciting isn't it! I'm starting to add things like "find movers," "get travel insurance," and "send AirTrek itineraries."

Lately, it's been ideal for tracking people who are buying or picking up freecycled stuff. Speaking of material possessions, last night I literally sold my computer desk from under my computer, sold my snowboarding gear, and gave away 5 guided meditation tapes.

Each item that leaves my apartment has me feeling a little lighter. The extra cash is nice too. The last two big items are a set of curtains, and a night table. Then the rest is going to my parents or storage.

I have 3 full days of work left before I wrap up my leadership training, and turn in my resignation. Living la vida loca!

PS - for those with eagle eyes, note 10/30 marks the start of "Everest 2" on the Discovery Channel at 10pm. I watched the first Everest about 10 times (all 6 episodes). Check it out if you can!

PSS - looks like I'll also be around to catch the second half of the Man vs. Wild season airing in November (in the USA), featuring 2-hour episodes, including the one where Bear Grylls flies over Everest using a super-powered fan strapped to his back!

I Love eMove.com

As a kid, my family moved to a new state twice. While it made me sad to leave my friends behind each time, I did enjoy unpacking all my stuff in a new home.

As an adult, being responsible for do-it-yourself moves can suck any fun out of moving day. If you've checked out my list of material possessions lately, you've probably noticed it's slowly shrinking as I give away and sell much of it.

The remainder will be divided between my storage space, my friend's basement, and my parent's house. And that's where eMove.com enters the picture.

In my twenties, I managed three separate DIY moves, and after the last one, I told myself I would start paying for help in the future. The future is now, and I'm so glad I learned about eMove. It was purely by happenstance, too.

I picked up a local moving company's business card at my storage location, Google'd them and found a message board with a few positive reviews and a reference to eMove.com.

eMove.com helps you rent moving equipment/supplies and storage space and obtain the labor to haul your stuff. I've rented a Uhaul before, but that's on the back burner compared to locking in the human help.

I entered my zip code and move date and up came a long list of local movers. Each moving company's profile included a ranking (based on five stars), hourly rates, and a list of customer reviews.

When you make a decision, you fill out an online form with details about your move, the estimated number of hours required, and payment information in the form of a credit card.

The company is responsible for approving/declining your request within 24 hours. True to form, within 24 hours, I received an acceptance of my 3-stop moving adventure scheduled for Saturday, November 3.

The family-owned company I chose rated 5 of 5 on the star meter, had 945 (primarily glowing) customer reviews, was on the less expensive end of the scale ($40/hour for two people + $25 flat travel fee), and ironically, was the company whose card I had picked up at the storage place.

Ascertaining their help with the heavy lifting is a huge burden off my back (literally). Now to wrangle me a Uhaul truck! Yee-haw!

Obtaining My Certificate of Title For a Vehicle

It took me six days to obtain the title to my Jetta from VW Credit.

I got a cashier's check from my bank for the remainder of my loan, printed a payoff quote from the website, overnighted them both to VW, and paid extra for them to send the title back via FedEx.

I now have the pleasure of owning the first car I've completely paid for on my own and will bask in this anti-climactic feeling for a full five weeks before I sign it over to a new driver!

I'm completely debt-free at this point, for probably the first time in 13 years.

Saving for my backpacking trip around the world has taught me to be financially disciplined, a trait I hope to carry with me for the rest of my life.

Freecycling My Way to Freedom

Ever since Laura mentioned Freecycling in her comments on my Reserve Storage Space post last week, I've been posting several items per day, and to my surprise, offloading them within 24-48 hours! It's yet another social network I'm glad to have joined. The primary motivation of its members is environmental - to ensure items stay out of landfills. As the instructions indicate, nothing is too small to post.

In less than a week, I've given away:

a plant
watch (with dead battery)
swimming goggles
meditation tapes
books
pictures
scale
clock

Each person has been friendly, grateful, and dependable. I've had a dad and his kids stop by, a young guy just getting started, a guy who works for Amtrak, and some older women. Some people grab and go, while a few have chatted for a bit.

It is a nice, new way to connect with others in the community, as well as meet the people who intend to use my stuff (as opposed to dropping it all off at the Salvation Army as I've done until now). It's working so well, my apartment is starting to feel increasingly empty.

Welcome! The Freecycle Networkâ„¢ is made up of 4,138 groups with 3,948,000 members across the globe. It's a grassroots and entirely nonprofit movement of people who are giving (& getting) stuff for free in their own towns. It's all about reuse and keeping good stuff out of landfills. Each local group is moderated by a local volunteer (them's good people). Membership is free. To sign up, find your community by entering it into the search box above or by clicking on " Browse Groups"? above the search box. Have fun!

Find your community through the Freecycle Network today, and start giving (or taking, if you're in that mode)!

Opening E*Trade Checking and Complete Savings Accounts

The rubber is really hitting the road in October and it feels like I'm taking bigger and bolder steps to lay the groundwork for my impending trip around the world!

Late last week, I applied online for E*Trade Checking and Complete Savings accounts. Ironically, after talking to a representative on the phone who helped me come to a decision, I learned E*Trade is headquartered in none other than my home town of Arlington, Virginia!

I've had Brokerage and Employee Stock Purchase Plan accounts with them for about 7 years, so I'm already a little familiar with their website design.

Below are some deciding factors on E*Trade as my online banking choice for my travels abroad.

Checking Account

Free ATM/VISA debit card
E*TRADE Bank will not charge a fee for withdrawing funds from any institution's ATM nationwide (in the USA) but the owner/operator of the ATM may. These fees will automatically be credited to your account.
E*TRADE Bank does impose a charge equal to 1% of the transaction amount for non-U.S. currency transactions (1% is about as low as I could find)
No monthly account fees
No minimum balance required
Free, unlimited online bill payments
Online access protected by Digital Security ID ("It makes unauthorized login virtually impossible.")
Clear and comprehensive fraud protection

Complete Savings Account

Current APY (interest rate) is 5.05% - This is 0.75% higher than my ING Direct savings account.
No minimum balance required
Ability to do Quick Transfers (i.e. "real-time") with my E*Trade Checking Account
Online access protected by Digital Security ID (only one ID is required to access both accounts)
Clear and comprehensive fraud protection
Downside - "Withdrawal limits apply. Under Federal regulations related to these types of accounts, account holders are allowed up to six withdrawals or transfers (for example, using Quick Transfer) from their account in any calendar month. Inbound Quick Transfers are not subject to any limits."

Two Travel Bloggers Meet At An Irish Pub...

Stacy from Rambling Traveler was visiting a friend in the DC area with her husband Doug this past weekend and suggested we meet up for a drink.

I steered us toward Ireland's Four Courts in Arlington.

We laughed, we ate 7-layer dip and chips, we enjoyed a few beers, we talked about blogs and travel, and they gave me advice about a surly woman from Craig's List who berated me earlier in the day.

Next time I'll be sure to flash my pearly whites for the camera!

Marcel's - French Dining At Its Finest

Did I hear my Dad right? An opportunity to pick any restaurant in the DC area for my 31st birthday dinner? The gauntlet had been thrown down, and I was all too eager to face the challenging task of picking a restaurant to enjoy my last gourmet meal (presumably) before hitting the road.

Marcel's, a French Belgian restaurant in Washington, DC, was ranked #9 on Washingtonian's Top 100 restaurants of 2007. Upon walking into the entrance, I immediately noticed the live piano being played in the bar area to our right. Directly in front of us, up a few stairs, was a view of the kitchen. The host was slightly to our left, and quickly arranged for us to be seated (we were 30 minutes early for our reservation). On the host's table, there were four pairs of spectacles laid out for those who might need a little extra help reading the menu.

We were immediately shown to our table in the dimly lit main dining room, which looked exactly like the photograph on the restaurant's website. The understated interior design was one of the reasons I picked Marcel's. From my seat, I had a slight view of a female chef in the raised kitchen. The ambiance was comfortable, and the service fantastic.

After a round of cocktails, the chef sent out a small treat, an amuse bouche of salmon with capers. I learned about such treats on Bravo's Top Chef. They're usually a one-bite palette cleanser served at the start of a meal. Little surprise dishes "from the chef" are a very good sign of things to come! For my appetizer, I chose an Alaskan Salmon Ravioli. My Mom went with Gratin of Mussels, Roasted Garlic Cream Fondue of Tomatoes, and Baby Spinach. My Dad chose a house specialty, Boudin Blanc with Celery Root Puree Truffle and Red Wine Essence. Boudin Blanc is a creamy mousse of chicken and pheasant shaped in the form of a sausage. It wasn't quite what my Dad had in mind, though I enjoyed it!

I was not shy about using my camera, however I didn't realize the "indoor" setting wasn't appropriate until I was photographing our main courses. Yes, I have no shame, and I'm sure the multiple flashes caught everyone else's attention. It was my birthday though, and I was about to eat a meal I didn't want to soon forget.

I've eaten a lot of filet's, however I'm hard pressed to remember one so perfectly cooked to a medium rare, and seasoned to perfection, as the specimen placed before me during this meal. The foie gras was pure indulgence (my apologies to geese), the asparagus tender with a nice crunch. The sauce was very rich, and I only wanted for a little more of the mashed potatoes.

I always gravitate to chocolate desserts, so I went with the souffle. It was served with a chocolate ice cream, though the exact name of the flavor or brand was something unfamiliar to me. I thought the candle and "Happy Birthday" was playful in a sophisticated way.

Additional Large Photos (links will open in a new window):

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Chef Robert Wiedmaier's Marcel's is located at 2401 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20037. Dinner is served 7 days a week, starting at 5:30pm. Reservations are accepted online through OpenTable.com. Phone: 202-296-1166.

Reserving Storage Space

28 days remain before I vacate my apartment of close to 5 years. I felt a taste of impending freedom when I turned in my last rent check, and after much debate, reserved a storage unit through Extra Space.

Initially, I had settled on a 5'x5' climate-controlled space, however my Dad had recently put the idea in my head that I should keep my queen-size Sealy mattress and box spring (bought new less than 10 months ago). Perhaps it was thinking about whether to keep them, while comfortably laying on them each night, that did me in. At any rate, there was only a $17/month difference between the 5'x5' and 10'x5' units, so after a few quick calculations, I doubled my order to 50 square feet.

The space will cost me $90/month, however by signing a 12-month lease and paying up front, I can get the first 2 months free. Total cost for the first year is then $900.

My friend Phil has graciously agreed to store my kitchen table/chairs (which was a gift from my parents) and leather love seat in his basement. My parent's expressed an interest in my TV (also a gift from them), which makes for one less thing to sell. I put my headboard (sorry mom) up for sale on Craig's List and had 3 responses within the first 30 minutes, so there's certainly a feisty group of shoppers out there. No such luck with my carpet steam cleaner!

Physical Therapy Begins

I feel like a million bucks. After two weeks of solid worrying about how my knee pain may be accompanying and/or limiting me on my trip around the world, I feel as though I've got a plan to tackle it. Actually, my physical therapist has the plan. I'm just going to try and give the therapy 110% over the next 4 weeks.

After filling out some paperwork, the therapist evaluated my knees and gait (how I walk). He pointed out how flat-footed I am, and that new orthotics are definitely in order to correct my biomechanics. Later, when I asked him what was the most effective thing I could do to get better in the next 8 weeks, he immediately mentioned the orthotics again. I'm set to get that process started during tomorrow's visit.

I did 10 minutes of warm-up on a stationary bike, followed by 15 repetitions of 10 new stretching/strengthening exercises. My homework is to do the exercises every day. Then it was on to electrical stimulation of the knees, which is meant to increase blood flow and promote healing. Once the tingly stimulation began, giant bags of ice were dropped on each knee (on top of the 4 electrodes) for about 10 minutes. During this time, I went through a long list of questions from whether to buy new sneakers to the effectiveness of glucosamine/chondroitin supplements.

After seeing two doctors this year, and not really walking away feeling confident, I was glad my new therapist took the time to answer ALL of my questions in a confident and clear manner. By the end of our hour, I told him I felt really optimistic about getting better, and he was upbeat about my potential for improvement as well. Early on, I had made sure to share with him my goal to get better in time for my RTW trip.

Earlier in the day, I had seen my ophthalmologist who said my eyes look great, and I continue to have stable vision 8 years to the month after having LASIK surgery. Looks like I'm still at 20/20! I asked her about whether I could experience any problems at high altitudes, to which she confidently responded "no." I saw my dentist for a final routine cleaning, and was reminded one last time to floss every day.

I feel like a million bucks!

Q3 Savings Update for My Trip Around the World

September 30th marked the end of the third financial quarter of the year, and the end of another purchase period for my company's stock plan.

I wasted no time initiating the sale of stock over the weekend. Once the transaction is complete, I will use the money to open an E*Trade money market account which will be the primary account I access on my trip.

As Mike at Vagabondish recently noted, it offers an extra layer of security (in the form of an RSA token) perfect for those of us on the road using public computers for our online banking.

Unlike the last quarter, I just barely met my savings goal over the past 3 months. You can see the details on my 'Round the World Trip Plan.

To celebrate, I went out for a massage. I also convinced myself this would be therapeutic for my ailing knees!

Clarendon Day 2007 - Arlington's Biggest Festival

The intersection of Clarendon Boulevard and North Highland Street was the epicenter of the annual Clarendon Day street festival this past Saturday, September 29, 2007. This was my third year making an appearance at the event held just a few blocks from my apartment. Each year, it's gotten a little bigger, and a little better.

Bands and musicians play at 4 different stages located around central Clarendon, while local restaurants and artists sell their creations to a diverse crowd of local area residents. Proud dog owners are everywhere, and I was happy to see a skateboard demo by some local kids sponsored by Convoy Skateboards (also locally run). I caught one kid land a nice indie kickflip off a small plywood ramp.

Clarendon Day helps to foster a sense of community in Arlington, which is one of the aspects of the area I enjoy most. Despite the growth and development in this popular part of northern Virginia, it's nice to know you can still find crab cake platters and chocolate covered frozen cheesecakes in the middle of the street each Autumn.

Thoughts Over the Atlantic

Monday, August 31, 1998

Bill and I got up and out at 7 AM, got to the T9 terminal at 8 AM. We found out our tickets were worthless by 9 AM. I went off to book a seat on the United Airlines flight at 10 AM. Searched and found a clean toilet (w/seat) at 11 AM. Met up with Bill (by chance) at a money machine at 12 PM. We sat at Burger King and read newspapers until 2 PM. My flight leaves at 4:50 PM, and arrives at 7:10 PM. Apparently, without the price quote from yesterday, the ticket would have cost $900. But the lady working there was very nice, and gave me the lower price. It took about 15 minutes, but I was patient and content to have a set flight schedule. The time has been going by quick today, considering I've been at the airport for six hours already, and just two and a half more until I'm on the plane. Then, I'll be happy. And I'm just waiting to call home and ask to be picked up!

I checked through everything at 2 PM, and made my way to the boarding gate. Though the first x-ray guy checked all my film (like the guy did in Virginia and Boston), the second (sad and bored looking) guy did not. He made me put 11 roles of film through the x-ray. This nulls my efforts at the other airports. I'm still pissed off about it. And if my film is noticeably damaged, I'll be irate. Of course, I won't be able to do anything about it. Though the airport seemed daunting at first, I've had no problems getting through the system today. I'm waiting to board the plane at 4 PM. Only then will I be truly content. Before going to England, I was noticing some weight loss. But, after a diet of fast food and beer, I'm sure I've gained weight. Luckily, I have a routine at home.

My savings account has dwindled dangerously low. I'm hoping to pick up a little money with Manpower before the holidays. And that will go towards my credit cards. There is so much I look forward to at home: Howard Stern show on Saturday nights, football, baseball and the New York Yankees, TV, news of the declining global economy, my room, a private bathroom, skateboarding, computer games (esp. Dune 2000). I've decided to wait till home to write up my list of good and bad travel tips. Hopefully, this will help me on my next trip, and anyone else. I really smell right now. The person sitting next to me on the plane will surely notice my odor. I threw out my only two pairs of Italian underwear. Going commando isn't that bad when you don't move around a lot. I guess I should mention again that I'm a bit nervous about customs. Worst case scenario is they search my bag and pull out the magazine. I really stink! And I'm sure it will be worse after a 9 hour plane trip.

I got on the plane, a Boeing 777, which I believe is one of the newest models. It's not a jumbo jet though. I got a window seat. The plane is definitely not full. There are in-seat video screens (5") so everyone gets a personal view of the movies. It turns out that I even get a choice of the movies I want to watch. I chose to watch the first half of "Titanic." I also flipped around, caught a bit of "As Good As It Gets." I'm hoping for "Good Will Hunting" later. There is also a map screen which displays our current position, speed, height, and ETA. The service has been great. All drinks are free, but I'm not going to bother drinking. I filled out the US Customs form. I declared my sweater, 2 tapes, 5 CDs, and the 2 Guinness glasses. Hopefully, I won't have a problem. Since I don't have any checked luggage, I should get through quickly!

For dinner (lunch by EST), I got chicken and potatoes. It was very good, and the service has been awesome. There has been a little turbulence so far, but mostly it has been smooth. I have to shit, but I don't want to deal with getting up, etc. We are approaching the southern tip of Greenland at the halfway point. I'm definitely leaving this flight with a great impression of United Airlines. The damn video screens are great! The best part is that technology is only advancing, more personal options are in the future for air travelers (and space, but not in my lifetime, I don't think). Well, I'm ready to start the second part of "Titanic."

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Hosting My Second Couchsurfer

This week I hosted my second couchsurfer, Choony. She received her Master's from Yale University earlier in the year, and is spending the subsequent months traveling around the United States. When not attending Ivy League schools, Choony works for an NGO (non-governmental organization) back in Seoul, South Korea.

We talked for about 4 hours the first night, mostly exchanging perspectives on cultural norms in our respective countries. I found the experience of hosting her to be very enlightening. On her second night, which coincided with my birthday, she offered to take me out to dinner as a "thank you." I happened to have Washingtonian Magazine's list of 100 best restaurants for 2007, and picked out #47 - Thai Square - which was only a few miles from my apartment (and quite a bargain).

I forgot my camera, so you'll just have to picture our tasty meal:

Tom Yum Koong - Shrimp and straw mushrooms simmered in a hot and sour lemon grass broth.
Roasted Duck in Red Curry Sauce - Tender slices of roasted duck in spicy red curry with diced pineapple and basil leaves.
Pad Thai - Thin noodles stir-fried with shrimp, chicken, ground roasted peanuts, scallions, and bean sprouts.

The Wonderful World of Kneecaps

Last month I mentioned my knackered knees were causing me to worry about the pain I might experience on the road. If I think about the last 4 months, I do believe I've experienced some improvement, however an extra 10-12 minute walk in my day will still leave me hurting for several days after (which obviously shouldn't be the case!). A good friend, who listened to my complaints, suggested I see an orthopedist (vs a podiatrist). I picked one near work, and finally got in to see him on my birthday.

The first thing I noticed in the waiting room of the orthopedic clinic was how I was about 20-30 years younger than the other patients. The surgeons at this particular clinic specialize in joint (knee/hip) replacement, and apparently business is booming. A radiologist x-rayed both of my knees, and I patiently awaited the doctor. Before he came into my room, I could hear him in the hall dictating his last patient's visit, noting he/she had opted for double knee replacement surgery.

The doctor introduced himself, and I gave him a brief rundown of my problem/history, and my upcoming plan to backpack around the world. The first thing he pointed out in my x-rays were the shape of my kneecaps. Apparently a normal kneecap is one round piece of bone. My right kneecap had two pieces of bone, and my left three! Given this surprising news, I asked what percentage of the population have knees such as mine. His response was less than 1%. Lucky me!

He felt around my knees, where those little extra pieces of bone were, and as the pain wasn't in those areas, he deemed it unrelated to my freak-of-nature kneecaps. He said this was good news because the treatment would've been to surgically remove the smaller pieces of bone. He then suggested that the pain is consistent with soft tissue problems in the inner knee, and that treatment would be non-surgical in nature (thank god for such a response from a surgeon). He wrote me a prescription for a month's worth of physical therapy, as I had hoped.

Before his assistant brought me the prescription, I could hear the doctor in the hall dictating again, and this time about me. My favorite part was when he mentioned the fact that I intend to go backpacking around the world!

Unfortunately, I'm planning to give my notice at work within the next 1-2 weeks, which is not going to be enough time to see results from the physical therapy. I don't feel like it's enough of a problem to turn back now though, so I'm going to do the physical therapy, follow all their suggestions, and try to get back to normal in the time I have left.

My 31st Birthday Dinner At Delhi Club

September 25th marks my 31st birthday, so to celebrate, a few friends took me out to dinner at Delhi Club, a local Indian restaurant I'd been wanting to try out for a few years.

The dinner was worth the wait. The top photo was my friend Jason's sizzling dish of tandoori lamb, chicken, shrimp, and salmon.

I think it looks even tastier in the photo (the restaurant was dimly lit)!

As for myself, I love curry chicken, and there were plenty of options to choose from on the menu.

I went with malabar curry, which was coconut-based with crushed red pepper and curry leaves. It was rich and delicious, with just the right spicy kick!

Lastly, as seen below, we ordered up a variety of naan (bread).

To wash it all down, I had a couple of authentic, Indian Kingfish beers. Apparently they're the "Budweiser" of India.

Sometimes beer is just beer, and I can't really tell the subtle difference between them, regardless of their country of origin. T

he only beers that disagree with me are the ones with super high (like 10+ percent) alcohol contents.

After dinner, I went to my friend Mark's place and promptly lost $20 in a poker game. I'm not much of a gambler - I always expect to lose, though I did win one hand with a full house.

Special thanks to my friend Phil, who gave me a birthday gift in the form of a donation for my backpacking trip.

Missing My Flight Home

Sunday, August 30, 1998

I woke up ready to go. Unfortunately, I drank some coffee and hot chocolate. Instantly, I felt bowel problems. And since I haven't learned to go to the bathroom at the right times yet (like when I'm on a train, and I wait till the station, even though I know I'll have to pay to use the toilet there). The point is that I couldn't find a decent, clean toilet at the train station or airport. So I decided to wait for the airplane bathroom. Keeping this in mind, I noticed that my flight number wasn't listed in the place it should be. To make a long story short, I missed my flight because I hadn't called the airline number to confirm the flight time. The flight had been moved from 3 PM to 10:15 AM. Even worse, it had been delayed at the airport until 1:30 PM, but I couldn't get on because of security reasons.

I eventually met up with Bill there. I also found six other people that had missed the flight. By this time, I was tired, angry, and mad that everyone was smoking in the (charter) terminal. I gathered unsure information. Bill and I then went to the main terminal. Apparently we had been in T9 the whole time, a terminal for charter flights only. This explained a lot. The best price quote I could get was $600 for a round trip ticket to Washington, DC for tomorrow afternoon on a United Airlines flight. I figured part of the cost would be offset since I wouldn't have to travel from Boston to DC. I knew I was going to have to buy a ticket, but decided to go see if there were any new developments in the morning. We left, unable to find a TransAir office, or any definitive information.

We went back to the Woodstock hostel for the night. Many of the same people were still there. It turned out to be a good night. I got Thai food for the first time. Chicken with peppers, pineapple, and rice. I actually ate some of the red bell peppers, after being convinced that they weren't hot. Bill was out of money. He had traveled to Switzerland, Belgium, and England. He also met a lot of girls. After exchanging experiences, I realized how alone I had been for the second part of my trip. Anyway, I drank some beer and talked with many fine people, including two German guys who were entertaining. It started off when I noticed one of them playing with his fish skeletons (Thai food).

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Ben's Chili Bowl - A Washington, DC Landmark

Ben's Chili Bowl was born in 1958 and Washingtonians have been thankful ever since. Over the past few years, I'd heard it's name associated with stars such as Bill Cosby, and finally decided to see what the buzz was about.

Located in northwest DC, along the U Street corridor, Ben's Chili Bowl has watched the neighborhood around it gentrify and develop in recent years. The Starbucks and metro entrance across the street is a fitting contrast to the historical chili joint which began serving customers when U Street was once known as the "Black Broadway" due to all the jazz clubs. As noted on the history page of Ben's Chili Bowl website:

It was not uncommon to see such luminaries as Duke Ellington, Miles Davis, Bessie Smith, Ella Fitzgerald, Cab Calloway, Nat King Cole, Redd Foxx, Dick Gregory, Martin Luther King Jr., or Bill Cosby at " the Bowl."?

Stepping into the Bowl around noon on a beautiful Saturday afternoon, I wondered whether I'd be in for a wait to get my food. The restaurant had clearly marked instructions to line up, order your food, and pay before taking a seat. It only took a few minutes for me to order and pay, despite the place feeling and looking quite busy. I went with Ben's Original Chili Half-Smoke, a side of fries, and a Diet Coke, which totaled $10.

I grabbed a seat at the end of the counter, by the jukebox which was blaring. A college football game was on TV in the corner, above a small sink. There were giant metal canisters around the sink, and before I could give too much thought to whether employees actually use it, I saw one use it, and refill the towel dispenser to boot. I flipped through a copy of Washington's weekly City Paper, and about 5-10 minutes later, one of the servers brought over my meal.

While it's hard to see in the photo above, there is a jumbo hot dog under all that chili, and it was split in half and grilled further, before the addition of mustard and onions. The potato chips and fries were standard fare, though a nice compliment to the main attraction. Next time I'd skip the fries altogether because the serving was too large for one person. The Chili Half-Smoke is served with plastic utensils, however I was easily able to pick up the bun and eat with my hands (though I did manage to spill chili on my shorts).

Americans know how to make a darn good hot dog, and Ben's is no exception. Despite the slathering of delicious and slightly spicy chili, I was able to taste the flavor of the dog beneath it all, and it was one of the best I've ever had. The atmosphere was lively, with a mix of eat-in and take-out customers rotating through the restaurant. The staff were upbeat and friendly. Their menu offers several vegetarian options, including chili and burgers, and the breakfast options are plentiful.

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Ben's Chili Bowl is located at 1213 U Street NW, Washington, DC (between 12th and 13th Streets), across from the U Street/Cardozo metro station. Phone: 202-667-0909. Hours: Mon-Thurs 6am-2am; Fri-Sat 6am-4am; Sun noon-8pm.

Absinthe and My Last Day of Work

And the survey says.....I will be taking a shot of the green fairy on my last day of work! I recently moved the big day up to Thursday, November 8. Thank you to everyone who voted on this serious topic!

Back in 1998, I visited Prague where Absinthe is readily available, though I didn't get a chance to try it. Ironically, it was at a coworker's party a few years ago in northern Virginia that I took my one and only shot. I remember it was very strong, and reminded me of Rumple Minz (100 proof peppermint schnapps).

Still, the prospect of video recording my experience leaves me with a few butterflies, though I'm sure they'll quickly die of alcohol poisoning once I down the liquor!

Which occasion should I celebrate with a shot of Absinthe (140 proof, I will post video)?

Last day of work (~Nov 13) (35%, 8 Votes)
31st birthday (Sept 25) (30%, 7 Votes)
Giving notice to resign at work (Oct 4) (17%, 4 Votes)
Last day in USA (~Nov 27) (17%, 4 Votes)
Last night in apartment (Nov 2) (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 23

My Last Night in Europe

Saturday, August 29, 1998

Leaving Canterbury for Dover, England

I woke up this morning after some really cool dreams. One involved me and several beautiful women; another was about how the two Japanese students won a major international award. Sometimes dreams feel so real while they are happening (which in reality might only be a few seconds). Often, I'll wake up with a quick lapse of not knowing whether or not it was reality or a dream. The night before I visited the Cliffs of Moher, I had a dream that people were jumping off them (the cliffs). I wanted to join them, but couldn't (too scared). The next day when I went, I saw people walking along the out-of-bounds area, and I overcame my fear of heights, and joined them. Coincidence? Parallels? Psychic dream?

Anyway, I was awoken around 8:30 AM to a full English breakfast cooked by (Karen?) Connolly, the B+B keeper. Sausage, egg, toast, beans, and coffee. It was great! Served in her dining room. She was really nice, and kind of motherly. It seemed like we (her travelers) were surrogate children. It was a nice experience staying there. I'm currently waiting two and a half hours for the hovercraft. I just got an awful tasting cappuccino at the terminal. I can't seem to get a connection (phone) with any of the Paris hostels, so I'll have to call in Calais, France. I'm a little worried that I'm going to have to pay a lot for a room. If that is the case, I might just spend the night at the airport.

It looks like I'll actually be on budget for the first time in two weeks. My most expensive week turned out to be the one full week in Ireland. Second most expensive was the week (and travel) in London. So I was on budget for five of the seven weeks. It also turns out that I will have two full days of travel left on my Eurorail pass. Since I bought that erasable pen, stretching it has been a lot easier. Especially in Ireland, where they don't even punch the ticket. Unfortunately, the train services are not as widespread as in the rest of Europe.

Riding back through Dover, I got a better look at the white cliffs. Perhaps if there weren't a city below, they'd be more impressive. Apparently the channel is more traveled on weekends (which makes sense). Still, I'll be waiting, just as I am now, in Paris to go home.

Returning to Paris, France

I got to Paris after a three and a half hour train ride. I reserved a bed at the Woodstock hostel. The train ride went slowly after a family of six, with four kids, entered my compartment. The kids were just a little too loud for me. It took about ten minutes to get to the hostel via metro, which will be great to use in the morning . When I got there, the Beastie Boys "Hello Nasty" was playing (and right after I had just listened to the whole thing on the train). I emptied my bowels, and washed my face. After I had seen the beer in the common room, I was anxious to drink myself to sleep. I also wanted to see how the draft tolerance I had built up in the United Kingdom would compare against eleven ounce bottled beer.

I'm drinking my first Heineken since Amsterdam (I think), and it isn't as good as I thought. Therefore, I'm changing my official beer to Kilkenny because it was such a nice surprise. It is nice to be back in a hostel filled with young people. Ireland's were nice, but they were more family oriented, with a mostly (all?) no alcohol policy. While I set up to drink myself to bed, I plan on writing in this damn journal. All my thoughts in stream of consciousness form will be put down, regarding my trip. Are you ready?

I'm too busy drinking right now to write. I can say that the 25 cl (like 8 oz.) of beer in the Carlsberg and 1664 bottles really sucks! I had plenty of Francs to spend. There is a black cat here. I petted him for a bit, but when I touched him while he was licking himself, he bit, and then hissed at me! This hostel makes me not want to leave Europe. Both this hostel and the Aloha have gas tank frames in their common room, coincidence? I'm so glad the two people working here are drinking right now!

Since I'm already buzzed, I'm likely to talk about anything (so Dave Lee, in 20 years, I hope you and your wife and maybe your eldest child are entertained by this). One of the guys working here is turning 24 on this Saturday night. This explains why his favorite band, Soul Coughing, is playing and why he is drinking (and why the same song, "The Bug" is on repeat). There is ½ a Volkswagen Bug on the wall, with a couple of black lights in the windows. I just found out that they serve whiskey at another hostel in town, the 3 Ducks.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

National Air Force Memorial

Every day I drive to work or the supermarket, I pass by the new National Air Force Memorial which was constructed last October in Arlington, on a hill just above the Pentagon. The memorial is 270 feet tall, evoking the "bomb burst" maneuver performed by the Air Force Thunderbird Demonstration Team. The three spires also symbolize the values of the Air Force - Integrity First, Service Before Self, and Excellence In All That Is Done . In an effort to see a little more of my home town, I drove the great distance of 2 miles to check it out up close.

The view of Washington, DC was great - you could see the National Cathedral, Washington Monument, Pentagon, Capital Dome, and planes flying past them all on the way to their landing strip at Reagan Airport. The memorial itself had a somber feel to it - with two opposing granite walls - each with a series of noble quotations from Airmen, and the dates of what I believe were wartime engagements by the Air Force. As I tried to look up the 3 spires, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe, such as a child might have watching airplanes fly. It was amazing how the memorial captured the spirit of flight!

I tried to take artistic photos, however I'm not quite sure I did the memorial justice. I bet professional photographers have a field day with it, especially during sunrise and sunset. Definitely a little out of the way in comparison to all the other monuments on The Mall, however worth the time if you're in the DC area.

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Read more about the memorial at the Air Force Memorial Foundation website.

Petzl Zipka Plus LED Headlamp

Flashlights have gone the way of the Dodo bird when it comes to backpackers' lighting gear of choice.

In May 2006, I came to this realization when I tried to use my trusted Mini Maglite on a pre-dawn hike to the top of Temple IV in Tikal, Guatemala to watch the sunrise over the awakening jungle.

I was staying at the Jaguar Inn, one of the three lodges inside the park...a park that turns off the electricity every night.

I first ran into challenges trying to use the bathroom with just a small flashlight.

The experience was later trumped by having to carry the thing on a 30-minute walk in the dark, followed by a very steep climb of the old, wooden staircase that leads up the temple.

I looked on with envy at my fellow travelers wearing headlamps. I could only use one hand to steady myself on the way up those stairs, while they had both, and far brighter light to boot.

As I continue to gather the few and essential items for my trip around the world, I was excited to purchase an LED headlamp and join the 21st century.

I headed to a local REI store and quickly found plenty of options in the headlamp section.

There were two options by Petzl, which I debated back and forth for 20 minutes. Headband (Tikka Plus), or no headband (Zipka Plus)?

Headband = security (+), adjustable mount (+), $5 cheaper (+), 78 grams/extra weight (-), extra size (-)

No headband (spring-loaded, retractable string) = 65 grams/lighter (+), smaller (+), easily worn on wrist (+), $5 more (-), no adjustable mount (-), questionable durability of retracting mechanism/string prone to fraying (-)

I found it difficult to make a decision, so I fell on the side of less weight is better, and went with the Zipka Plus, which uses a retractable, spring-loaded string to hold the headlamp to one's head, versus a normal stretch headband.

Both headlamps take 3 AAA batteries and are far more efficient than a regular flashlight.

Both models are water-resistant and have 4 settings (maximum - 100 hours life, optimum - 120 hours life, economic - 150 hours life, and strobe).

Below is my not-so-scientific comparison with the Mini Maglite on left, and Petzl Zipka Plus on right:

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REI.com offers the full line of Petzl headlamps and products, including user reviews and detailed expert advice.

The Tikka Plus (headband) retails for $34.95, while the Zipka Plus goes for $39.95.

Sushi and Sashimi Adventures in DC

If I'm going to work my way up to eating tarantula's and snake hearts in Asia, then high-end sushi is a good place to start my training in the bizarre foods arena. Yes, sushi and sashimi are still new territory for me and my palette. Inspired to expand my horizons, I was excited to meet up with some friends last weekend for a delicious meal at Sushi Taro in the Dupont Circle area of Washington, DC.

To really throw caution to the wind, I joined two friends in ordering the $42 Chef's Omakase (selection). We had no idea what was coming! My friends ordered the sashimi version (without rice), while I still felt the need to have my seafood grounded in grains.

Pictured above was my 18-piece entree, which included: sea eel (upper left), shrimp, fatty and medium tuna, sea urchin (upper right), salmon, salmon roe, mackerel, assorted rolls, and a few more fish I can't recall. On my first bite, I was reminded of the nasal-clearing wasabi that is often used as glue between the fish and rice. All in all, I enjoyed most of the fish. The sea urchin's texture was very soft, and dare I say silky. I couldn't bring myself to put the whole thing in my mouth at once though (baby steps). The sea eel was cooked a bit, and not my cup of tea. I was surprised when I found the salmon eggs would individually pop like balloons in my mouth, releasing a salty liquid like a little gift.

My friends' sashimi entrees held the real action - shrimp heads, and a full, fried, palm-sized fish skeleton. One of my friends easily chomped down on the whole fish, while the other couldn't bear to take a bite. As we were wrapping up, I felt it my duty to push my limits, so I took the uneaten fish skeleton and bit the head off of it. Mostly crunchy, it didn't really taste bad, or good. I felt a little bit of squishiness - perhaps the brain or eyeballs, however I found it quite edible!

I may eat these words later, however for now, I'm ready to eat some gnarly cuisine abroad!

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Large photo of my sushi

Large photo of fish skeleton

Backpacking Humor

Special thanks to my Dad for sharing this Zits comic strip with me. Enjoy!

Son: Taa-Daah! My life plan in four steps.

1. Play guitar in high school.

2. Play guitar in college.

3. Backpack around the world for ten years.

4. Retire comfortably.

Father: Um, I don't see anything in here about a career.

Son: It's just an outline. I'll fill in the minor details later.

Canterbury and Returning to Paris

Thursday, August 27, 1998

I woke up and got to the bus stop in time to choose between the Dublin bus and the Galway bus. I chose to go to Galway, and try to catch a train (which would be free w/Eurorail). I ended up missing the train by thirty minutes. I decided to catch the next bus. By now, it had already been a long day of traveling.

I decided to go for London and skip a final night in Dublin. I did get my souvenirs: 1 can of Guinness, 1 can of Kilkenny, 1 can of Carlsberg, a small bottle of Jameson Irish whiskey, 2 Guinness pint glasses, and a few more Irish music CD's and tapes.

I'm on the Stena Ferry now, which doesn't carry buses (like the other one I was on), but is twice as fast. Instead of three hours, it is only one and a half. This one is even more luxurious than the other, with more bars, gambling tables, and even a McDonald's. I just lent my headphones to a guy who said he would be bringing them back soon. It has been about ten to fifteen minutes, and I'm wondering if I'm too complacent to go ask for them back.

Well, I got my headphones back only because I caught the guy before he left the boat. I ended up getting an empty seat next to me for the bus ride to London. Just a little extra room to stretch out. I took my sneakers off for a bit. Wow, the stink was awful. But I don't really care at this point.

Friday, August 28, 1998

It is hard to tell how much sleep I got on the bus, probably three to five hours. I've decided to stay in Canterbury, England for the night and Paris for my final night. I'm really over budget right now. Therefore, I'm looking forward to going home with extra urgency. Spending money to see Ireland is one thing; to spend four days getting home is another. Suffice to say, I had no will power when it came to sticking to a budget. I've been traveling for 23 hours straight! I'm happy to get some sleep this afternoon.

I arrived in Canterbury and called the hostel. There were rooms, but they said that I couldn't make it to the hostel before it closed for the afternoon in ten minutes. This pissed me off. By the time I figured out where the hostel was (I needed to see a map), it was too late. And it turns out that I probably could have made it. I took a rest in a park, and decided to walk around (w/pack).

As I walked toward the hostel (to wait for it to reopen), I came across a $15 bed and breakfast mentioned in "Let's Go." There was no lockout, so I decided to go pay so I could sleep. It was really a nice place. I stayed in a two bunk room with shower and toilet, and a TV. There were two Japanese students there too. I really enjoyed talking to them, as they enjoyed snowboarding, punk music (and the Beastie Boys), and Sony's Playstation. I took a three hour nap, only rising so I could see Canterbury Cathedral (and I didn't want to mess up my internal clock).

I made the mistake of paying to see the ruins of St. Augustine's Abbey. There wasn't much to see, and the hand held audio tour was boring. I went to the cathedral, which turned out to be free after 4:30 PM, so I guess it balanced out. The interior really impressed me, especially the architecture of the sculptures and courtyard. There were also some really amazing stained glass windows. I went back to the room since I was quite tired. As I learned in Doolin, it is hard to enjoy yourself while longing for rest. I watched a few episodes of Cheers, the Cosby Show, and Friends.

I can't believe people leave their trays behind in McDonald's and Burger King (and other fast food restaurants). This means the places have to hire more people just to clean up!

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Caving in Belize's Actun Tunichil Muknal

Mayawalk tour group in front of hourglass-shaped cave opening

For most people, Belize conjures images of crystal clear Caribbean waters and world class diving, however in May 2006, I discovered the interior jungles are filled with mystery and adrenaline-pumping adventures.

The highlight of my two week backpacking trip through this unique country was a 3-hour cave tour of Actun Tunichil Muknal ("ATM"), also known as the Cave of the Stone Sepulcher. The Mayans used the cave over 1,200 years ago for ritual sacrifices.

Ladder we climbed to final chamber in cave

The expedition began with a 45-minute drive from San Ignacio, a city near the western border with Guatemala, to the entrance of the park which contained the cave. Our eight person group hiked for 20 minutes along a jungle trail, wading across three streams, until we arrived at a staging area used by Thomas Miller, the archaeologist who discovered ATM in 1986. It consisted of a campfire site, outhouse, and small roofed area.

We donned our helmets and headlamps, climbed down a small bank, and began to swim upstream into the ominously dark, hourglass-shaped entrance of the cave. After a few minutes, the headlamps were our only source of light, while the cool water being splashed around was the only sound.

Walking single file, my eyes were consistently focused on the foot placement of the person in front of me. Twisting an ankle or falling on the slippery rocks was a real danger. Our guide navigated us through spaces small enough to confound a contortionist.

Eventually, we arrived upon a giant boulder, which we climbed up in order to reach the dry chambers containing ancient Mayan pottery and remains. Due to the sensitive nature of the archaeological site, we were all required to wear socks, which were sopping wet by this point. Great care was given to walk only where our guide walked, as we navigated through the eerie chambers of stalactites and stalagmites.

The ultimate reward for our efforts was the opportunity to climb up a 12-foot ladder to a small chamber containing the full, calcified skeletal remains of a young woman who had been sacrificed to the Mayan Gods.

Calcified sacrificial remains of Mayan woman

This experience left me feeling like Indiana Jones. It was truly one of the greatest adventures of my life. Tour entries into ATM are timed so you rarely run into others. Group size is limited to about 8 people. Many tour companies across Belize offer trips to Actun Tunichil Muknal, however it is easiest to access from the small city of San Ignacio.

I signed up for a tour one day in advance, at a cost of $80, through Mayawalk Tours. The drive and cave guide were both excellent.

See all of my photos from backpacking in Belize on Flickr.

Key Dates Before Leaving the USA

Exploring the Aran Islands

Wednesday, August 26, 1998

I woke up and headed down to the ferry dock. The sky had cleared overnight, and it was only partly cloudy now. But, the sun was shining down on me. I boarded the ferry, noticing the water on deck. I ended up sitting on the side of the boat that got soaked by the rough Atlantic waves. After about ten minutes of getting wet, me and everyone else in the immediate area moved. I sat (alone) on a bench near the one I was just on. I was surprised at how well I felt. And the seas were quite rough, the tiny ship was tossed. Water rolled back and forth across the deck. I didn't mind getting wet. It all added to my rough seas experience. I know the trip out to the islands was bumpy because on the way back, the water was still, and the ride was smooth.

About ten steps after I got off the boat, I was reeled into a tour bus. I got in since it was going to all the attractions ($7.50). It turns out that most people bike the island. And at ten miles long, it is not too bad for a day's workout. The whole island was covered with miles of stone walls. The amazing part was how the rocks were all placed and balanced by hand. The fort was said to be at least 4,000 years old! I tried on a $135 Aran sweater, but didn't come close to buying it. Just too expensive.

I realized when I got back to the hostel that I was sunburned (in Ireland, no less). I took a three hour nap. I only got out of bed to check out McDermott's. When I got there (after checking out an amazing sunset), I was so tired. Even more, I had no money, only enough for a pint of cider. The band was really good, and for the first time, I saw a person playing a pipe/flute. Six people in all. There was no singing after the first two songs. Once again, I was forced to stand due to the crowd. Tired, I returned to the hostel for sleep.

As I walked back, in the dark, noticing the stars, I thought about how little had changed in that Doolin pub. There were travelers in the past, who could stop for the night and be entertained by a trad band. I thought about this for awhile, even as I went to sleep.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Shot Through the Arm, Yellow Fever to Blame

I made a third lunchtime trip to my local travel clinic in as many months on Wednesday.

I've got their whole routine down and found myself feeling more and more impatient with each visit.

I want them to give me the "shot of the day" so I can get the heck back to work.

The $98 Yellow Fever shot felt like all the rest. Unfortunately, my health insurance won't cover this one, as it's probably considered a "travel immunization," which is excluded.

At least I've got 100% coverage on all the others I'm getting as part of my preventive benefits.

I'm down to needing a third Hepatitis B shot (late October), and if I'm feeling frisky, the Meningococcal vaccine.

While the maps indicate the disease is only a serious threat in the middle of Africa, I was advised that sleeping in dorm-style rooms might be a sufficient risk to make it a worthwhile jab.

I have little interest in spinal meningitis, so I'll probably get it on my fourth and final visit to the clinic.

I also picked up a two-week prescription for Doxycycline, an antibiotic used to prevent Malaria.

I wanted to test it out while still in the USA to ensure I don't have any adverse reactions.

Next week, I'll share more about why I chose this drug over the three others (Chloroquine, Malarone, and Lariam).

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Additional Resources: SmarTravel Profiles on 220 countries. USA Center for Disease Control - Traveler's Health section. Immunization Action Coalition - Vaccination Information for Healthcare Professionals.

A Tale of Two Brothers

Until two years ago, I thought it was rather courageous of me to be planning to backpack around the world as soon as I could muster up the money. I was going to give an obscene gesture to "the man" and delve into the counter-culture of backpacking and the vagabond's lifestyle.

Then Jon, my younger brother, joined the Marine Reserves and my perspective on courage changed drastically. He knew he'd be going to Iraq when he joined, yet he did so anyways out of a sense of duty to his country. I use to think such words were cheesy and vapid, until I sensed the sincerity behind them after he joined (while trying to justify the action with his petrified older brother and parents).

Last week we received an e-mail from him after he arrived safely in Kuwait. Two days later was his first e-mail from Iraq, which was surprisingly upbeat. It's the 16th country he's visited (he's ahead of me in that regard, though not for long). Below is an excerpt:

Funniest thing so far: Immediately after landing in a combat zone, we stand in line to receive our linens. Some of them are pink, tinker bell sheets.

Regardless of your thoughts on the war, please keep our soldiers, and the innocent people of Iraq in your thoughts and prayers. I know I will.

The Last Temptation of Work

Last Summer I faced a tough choice when deciding upon a departure date.

I could plan to leave at the end of 2007, thereby missing the busiest period of the year for my department and company, or I could leave in early 2008, after qualifying to receive a 10% annual bonus.

Ultimately, I realized if I could meet my savings goal by the earlier time frame, it'd be best to hit the road.

If I continued to stick around, I felt as though there was an increased risk of something occurring to derail my travel plans. S

o far, I've been very happy with my decision.

My employer's new CEO believes in the importance of providing quarterly updates on our company's performance as it relates to the annual bonus.

Updates are based on actual results and projections for the remainder of the year.

I received the 2nd quarter update last week, and was reminded of how much money I'm passing up by leaving the company before 12/31/07!

I've found it somewhat easy to be cavalier about leaving my job, however, it's a lot harder to feel that way when I think about the salary and benefits I'm leaving behind.

After all, I've been working my way up the food chain for the past 5 years. C'est la vie! (aka "That's life!")

When money is taken freedom is forsaken. -- Proverb

Money makes a good servant, but a bad master. -- Francis Bacon

Money has never made man happy, nor will it, there is nothing in its nature to produce happiness. The more of it one has the more one wants. -- Benjamin Franklin

A Video Introduction

Inspirational Interlude

The golden opportunity you are seeking is in yourself. It is not in your environment; it is not in luck or chance, or the help of others; it is in yourself alone. -- Orison Swett Marden

The quote above rang true for me when I came across it in a journal I received as part of my company's 2-day culture shaping workshop. I've often used quotes as motivational tools for staff, and myself, and I drew an instant connection between the message in this one and my solo backpacking trip.

I interpret it to mean the growth and personal potential I hope to realize is within my power to achieve, and not by a simple change in physical location, the luck of the Irish, or support of others. I have the power to realize my full potential here and now, in my seat, at my computer desk in Arlington, Virginia, USA.

Of course, I think it'll be a heck of a lot more fun to "be here and now" while sipping a Capirinha on the beaches of Rio de Janeiro!!

Walking Along the Precipitous Cliffs of Moher

Tuesday, August 25, 1998

I decided to spring for another bus ticket ($15) to get to the Cliffs of Moher. The bus trip went by fairly slow. We got to take a car ferry for 20 minutes too. It turned out that the bus changes drivers (and has a layover of 1 ½ hours) at the cliffs. This ended up being the perfect amount of time to explore. When I got there, the weather (not the sky) was clear. Then, fog and clouds covered up the cliffs, and then it cleared a half hour later. As I was leaving, the visibility was less than 100 feet. I thought this constant change created an interesting effect.

Though I was a little weary, I decided to walk along the edge of the cliffs. It was very exhilarating, and I was proud of myself! It was the first chance on my trip that I got to climb around/up and down rocks. The scene reminded me of Friedrich's "Monk by the Sea," a very spiritual painting showing man's insignificance in relation to the size and power of nature. I took several pictures, but there is no way they will be able to convey what it felt like to be engulfed in the mist of the Atlantic.

I ended up hopping off the bus in the lower village of Doolin, the unofficial trad music capital of Ireland. I walked down to the shore where I got my first glimpse of the small ferry I would be taking to the Aran Islands. It was being tossed all over by the sea. At this point, I seriously considered changing my plans. I decided to think about it. Then I decided that if I never got the chance to come back, how could I skip these islands. Plus, if I didn't go, I would have to leave Doolin because there would be nothing to do during the day.

On the way back from the coast, I stopped at O'Connor's Pub. This was the first of the two venues for the "world class trad" music I would see. It was populated with a good mixture of locals and tourists. I decided to check out the other pub in the upper village (15 minute walk). McDermott's had about ten to fifteen people (including staff). The decor included signs like "if I wanted to hear an asshole, I would have farted." The other bar had foreign currencies and police/fire badges on the walls. At this point, I decided to hit O'Connor's for the night. I ended up not getting a seat, as it was crowded, and I was kind of bothered by the fact that they didn't do any singing. I left early, though the music was good (and original too).

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

99 Days Until Departure

As the Countdown Timer to the right indicates, I'm 99 days from expected departure! When I first set the timer up earlier in the year, I believe it was somewhere just over 200 days. While that may seem like a drop in the bucket, in reality it has been an eternity!

The waiting this year has reminded me of the months preceding my first semester of college. After the excitement of high school graduation, I found myself unable to get a summer job. Having moved to Virginia two years prior, and not done a good job at making friends, I just kept telling myself I'd start a new (and more sociable) chapter of life once I arrived at college. In the meantime though, I was simply counting down the days.

This time around, I have a career and plenty of friends, however I once again find myself simply counting down the days until the next (and most adventurous) chapter in my life. I stay in during the weekends to prevent myself from spending money. I'm not pressing myself to date. I make do with the clothes I have, rather than buying new stuff. I tune out all conversations about high-definition TV!

Regardless of how successful I am at staying in the present moment these last 99 days, it'll all be worth it when I'm swaying in the breeze on a hammock in the South Pacific, and falling asleep on the deck of a felucca while sailing down the Nile River.

5 Common Approaches to Traveling the World

It's no secret I've decided to backpack around the world, heading west until I cover the approximately 24,900 miles which account for it's circumference. The idea of non-stop travel in one general direction for months, if not years, has an exciting draw to it I can't resist. That's not to say there aren't more accessible, though equally exciting, approaches to traveling the world.

1. One Country At A Time - With 194 countries in the world today, few people will reach them all in a single lifetime, yet visiting them one by one remains the most popular approach, at least in the United States. Pacing oneself at a trip, or two if you're lucky, per year can slowly build up one's experience abroad over the course of a lifetime.

2. Circuits - The world's geography can be broken up into circuits, or well worn backpacker trails, on each of the continents. Traveling by circuit usually requires more time and money, however the reward is a much greater sense of freedom. I experienced traveling my first circuit when I spent the Summer after college graduation backpacking around Europe (in a clockwise rotation from Paris). Currently, Central America and Southeast Asia are two very popular circuits due to beneficial exchange rates.

3. 'Round the World by Circuit - If the idea of non-stop, boots to the ground, travel seems less appealing, then consider a more unique strategy. The idea is to stop back at home between circuits. The duration at home can be as little as a few weeks to rest, relax, and rebuild stamina or health, or longer to earn more money. Last year in Guatemala, I met a Brit who spent 6 months working, followed by 6 months traveling a different circuit, each year. He had taken this approach for 5 years in a row!

4. Non-stop 'Round the World - The ultimate option in terms of freedom, traveling around the world non-stop is for those who truly have a passion for being on the road, and can effectively manage the added physical, mental and emotional stresses that go along with it. The world is your very large oyster!

5. Employment/Education/Volunteering - Possibly the smartest approach to seeing the world, if you can swing it, is to work, learn, or volunteer abroad. Such a strategy can allow you to use your new home base as a launching pad for exploration of the countries in that circuit. Not only are you closer to the countries, thus making them less costly to visit, you are immersed in a new culture when not traveling! My friend Charlie has been living in China for 2.5 years, earning his living as a DJ, which allows him to work his way around China, while taking side trips to Russia and Southeast Asia in his free time.

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Travel Fear - Knackered Knees

Alliteration aside, I've been encountering knee pain as I've tried to increase my cardiovascular fitness the past few months.

It seems as though the atrophy of my quadriceps and tightness of my hamstrings have reached epic proportions in advance of a backpacking trip where I hope to scale mountains and trek the Himalaya and Andes.

At first, I couldn't believe the fact that I was experiencing chrondomalacia (an overuse syndrome, aka "Runner's knee") from trying to walk an extra 30 minutes a day (15-minute morning and afternoon breaks at work).

After all, I bought a nice pair of motion-controlled Saucony running sneakers this past Spring, and I couldn't be *that* out of shape at the young age of 30!

When the pain of needles stabbing the underside of my kneecaps didn't dissipate, I caved and went to a sports doctor/podiatrist I had seen 5 years prior when I was feeling the same pain after actually running several miles a day.

He gave me the same message he did back then - ice, isometric exercises, stretching, and wearing supportive sneakers 7 days a week. He said to give it 6-8 weeks of this routine.

I did, though didn't ice my knees much out of laziness, and am continuing to feel the pain 3 months later.

Over the weekend, I started to feel down about it. I keep trying to picture what it would be like if I take off on this trip around the world, only to find myself in chronic pain from simply walking a lot!

And my plans for a 3-week trek of the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal would be squashed like the cartilage in my knees.

Eventually, I picked myself out of this downward spiral when I went to meet Ed, a local Virginian who had mentioned 'round the world travel on a recent post to the BootsnAll message boards.

When I returned to my apartment, I decided to double my efforts to improve my poor knees:

icing them twice a day
increasing the number of daily stretching exercises
start wearing my custom molded orthotics again
take the full recommend dosage of Glucosamine/Chrondroitin/MSM supplement (vs a lesser amount to be cheap)
limiting my walking until I'm in better shape

I'm hopeful this will be something I can easily get past if I commit to all of these steps.

When I went to Costa Rica in 2005 and Belize in 2006, I didn't have any knee pain, despite a moderate amount of activity.

I think it can only help that a lot of my walking and hiking was on sand, mud, and dirt, which are notably softer than the concrete and asphalt jungles of modern America.

Storing Photos For The Road

A few weeks after getting my Creative Zen V Plus mp3 player, I've filled it with over 7 gigs of the best music I own, plus a few hundred more songs I downloaded from from Napster during a free 30-day trial. When I started to run out of A-list music, I turned to photos.

The player's screen is only 1.5 inches, so the quality leaves much to be desired, however I quickly set up and filled the following folders:

Friends and Family
Food - photos of tasty restaurant meals and home cooking
Just for Fun (aka Random) - satellite photo of my office building, totaled Jetta from '05, kickflip (above), etc
Sports - a few shots from DC United and NY Yankees games
Travel - some of my favorite photos from Washington, DC (home), Europe and Central America

As I transferred the photos, I realized the importance they may play for me on the road. In the olden days, I'm quite sure backpackers would carry a few photos of home and family to keep them company while away for long periods of time. Given we've entered the digital age, it makes sense to use the photo viewer feature of mp3 players (and digital cameras if you prefer). Also, I realized it will make it easier to share a little more about me with others (should someone feign interest of course).

Setting a bunch of photos to slide show mode, while a sappy song plays along, will surely be a comfort when I'm feeling lonely.

PS - When I bought the player, I thought I'd be able to store photos from my camera on it, as well as add music during my travels. While there is a drag and drop feature, the music, photos, and video I store in this manner will not be accessible from the player. Basically, it functions as extra storage capacity unless I have access to the Creative software.

The Ring of Kerry and The Rose of Tralee

Sunday, August 25, 1998

I awakened to the sound of rain pattering on the skylight. I decided to spend the day on the Ring of Kerry bus tour, despite the rain. I figure there has to be a rainbow and pot of gold for me out there. So far, the tour (despite feeling touristy) has been great. I tried my first Irish coffee, and it was great. I felt really ignorant when I didn't realize there was Irish whiskey in it. It just tasted so good. We stopped at a shepherd's home for a demonstration of his dogs. The two dogs (collies?) were so well trained, it was amazing. The sheep are crazy; they jump off cliffs and run up the mountain to eat their grass.

I think I like the cloudy weather. It is really neat to see the clouds and fog roll around and over the mountains. And the occasional rain shower adds to the effect. I have seen a few bits of blue sky, but I doubt it will clear up much. The rest of the trip was quite scenic, and the driver put on the "Celtic Moods" tape so we had some music too. I haven't written in here for several days, so I'm a little hazy on the events of the day/night. According to habit, though, I went to see some music, and got drunk.

Monday, August 26, 1998

I decided to stop in Tralee and check out the festival. For the first time, the train station didn't have any town maps. I ended up walking four times the distance necessary to get to the town center. But once I saw the lights hanging across the street, I decided to stay. Also, the Finnegan's hostel was right in the middle of the town. It was a little expensive ($15). I took a walk throughout the park, where there was a giant rose garden, hence the "Rose of Tralee" beauty pageant festival. The city was a little too busy/big for me. I caught the second set of a show by the Guinness Jazz Band. Since I have no idea what is good jazz, I can't report on their skills. They were playing a lot of music that I knew though. The drummer was only 15 too, so he definitely had some natural talent.

The night arrived, and the Guinness Gig Rig (18 wheel truck) opened into a stage. After checking the scene at the first act, I decided to find some music in a pub. The group I found was made up of two or three old guys. They were good, but I didn't have a seat, and was cramped under the speaker by the door. For that reason, I left and went back early (11 PM). Oh, there were some impressive carnival rides set up. The whole scene reminded my of the Grady Squash festival in "Doc Hollywood."

Earlier that night, I had decided to splurge and get a good dinner. I went to Finnegan's, which was in the basement of the hostel (though not associated with the hostel). The atmosphere was really nice. Dark, cool, quiet, green candles in wine bottles, peat fire. I got the following: gin and tonic, warm brown bread, onion soup, chicken kiev w/salad and potatoes, chocolate mousse and Irish coffee. It was delicious. With tip, it cost about $40. The whole experience was bettered by the older (50+) couple who sat next to me. They had been all over, China, India, South America, and Europe. They were from San Diego. There was a picture of JFK on the wall which makes me wonder if he had eaten there. Only know do I realize that he was Irish, and that might be the reason.

The room I was in sucked. When I came back at one point during the afternoon, my sheets were all wet! I couldn't get a warm shower in the morning. For the first time, I had to sleep on the top bunk. There was a guy who kept me up with his snoring and farting.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Coffee and Travel Talk

It's no secret I'm a huge fan of the Couchsurfing concept and website, so I was excited when I had the chance to meet up with Monika (a new couchsurfer and local Arlingtonian) last night for coffee and travel talk. As much as I am inspired by the written word and blogs, it still can't beat exchanging stories and experiences with another person who shares the same passion in life!

Monika had e-mailed me through Couchsurfing with some questions about my backpacking trip around the world, and it just so happened that she worked for The Travel Channel, so it seemed to be a match made in travel heaven. I gave her my copy of Wanderlust and Lipstick and she surprised me with a No Reservation's pint glass (which I promptly filled with a Guinness after getting home, in honor of host Anthony Bourdain).

We continued talking long after our coffees had been consumed. She was born in India, and had plenty of advice for me regarding that country, as she use to spend her Summers there after having moved to the United States as a child. My favorite experience though, was her 6-month tour of Europe as a Coca-Cola Ambassador. I didn't find out what that entailed, as I was hung up on the fact that it meant she could travel on the company's bill! She recommended Bratislava, Slovakia, for a sense of what an Eastern European city looked like from a Communist and Capitalist perspective (the division being a river through the city).

I especially enjoyed relaying my thoughts (and those I've read from others in the travsphere) about the various Travel Channel shows which I've watched, such as 5 Takes and 1,000 Places to See Before You Die.

Even if you have no desire to host travelers, or be a guest yourself, Couchsurfing.com is a great way to meet new people who share a common passion for travel!

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PS - Monika - Thanks again for the pint glass. It's one thing I *won't* sell before leaving!

David Beckham Debuts Vs. DC United

I know I'm supposed to be in hardcore savings mode with about 3 months until departure, however, I got caught up in the media hype surrounding David Beckham's arrival in the United States last month.

When regular (vs. season/group) tickets finally went on sale, all were sold out except the corner upper deck seats (and even those were more expensive than normal).

I decided to catch the game on TV until I received an e-mail from the Barra Brava fan club I joined earlier in the year.

They still had single tickets for sale in their dedicated section (center, closest to the field).

The game turned out to be one of the best I've seen or attended in my past four years of following DC United (and soccer in general)!

I'll try to describe the scene from within Section 135 of a sold-out stadium of 46,000 fans:

Barra section stood on seats (as always)
Constant songs and chants (foul language aplenty)
Drums pound non-stop
Flags waved - big and small
Despite sundown, oppressive heat and humidity have us sweating like pigs
DC's Brazilian, Emilio, scored the one and only goal - beer flies everywhere
Green smoke bombs cloud the air
Flashbulbs flicker as Beckham began warm-ups around the 35th minute
Torrential rain begins before halftime
LA Galaxy player gets a red card (ejected) in the 66th minute (dangerous tackle)
Beckham takes the field (after taking off shirt for the ladies) in the 70th minute
Beckham bends his first MLS free-kick (LA misses equalizing opportunity)

Hot dog - $3 / Midfield-row 7 seat - $35 / Watching a soccer great debut in a new country's league - Priceless!

Killarney and The Blarney Stone

Saturday, August 22, 1998

I packed up and left early. Took the 8:45 AM train to Blarney. I made the mistake of bringing my backpack with me. I had a nice hangover too. Plus, I decided to skip the shower. Actually, I thought I'd be showering a lot less on this trip. Blarney Castle is definitely the best castle I've seen. Part of this is due to the beautiful setting in the green hills, and the little streams flowing. I climbed up the very steep cantilevered steps to the top of the keep. I had arrived before most of the tourists, so I was up there with only about ten people. I have a feeling that it is hard to get up there when it is crowded, due to the narrow stairs. Anyway, the Blarney Stone was up there, and I saw a girl kiss it. It really looked gross, but apparently people of all ages do it. Climbing down the stairs with my pack was really cutting things close. There was a lot of graffiti on the walls. It was a very small, personal castle for tourists to visit.

After the castle, I went to the Rock Close, an ancient druid ceremonial piece of land on the grounds. I was really surprised by the sights, such as the Wishing Steps, Witch's Cave, and Druid's Cave. Some of the trees were over 1,000 years old. The druid ritual sites were over 2,000 years old. Very cool, and I was practically alone in the area. The whole garden/park is cool because it really encourages exploration. I found this out when I entered Badger's Cave and the castle's Dungeon (with my flashlight). Both were cool and damp. I went to the end of the Badger's Cave, I think. The Dungeon creeped me out though, and I didn't want to go too far in by myself. When I turned out my flashlight, it was pitch black. This made me think about those crazy spelunkers.

I'm on my way to Killarney now. I think Blarney Castle has revitalized my enjoyment of Ireland. I didn't really like Cork as a city. Too big. I've found it easier to eat fast food after a few pints. Needless to say, my bowels are up in revolt about my Irish diet. Oh, I bought my official Irish wool sweater today. I got it on sale, along with tape number one of Irish pub songs. Is every goddamn train smoking in Ireland? We pulled into the first station where we arrived twenty minutes late. Another train let off a whole bunch of kids. There train had been no smoking, so they all got onto my train quite excited about the rest of their trip. The train quickly filled with smoke and noise. I was pissed for a bit, as I gagged on the billowing smoke. Then I put my Irish pub tape in my Walkman, and was happy with what I heard. Plus, I took a piss. I saw myself in the mirror, with my new sweater on, and I looked about forty years older. Sigh.

The train arrived in Killarney about 1 ¼ hours late. For the first time in the British Isles, I had to go to a second choice hostel for a room. My thoughts about staying in the Rail station hostel were changed when I saw my room with skylight, and the large showers. I walked around the town, and started my pub crawl. I went to the Laurels Singing Pub in hopes of good trad music. Instead, I found myself among tour groups of senior citizens. I felt about 25 years younger than everyone else. A guy with a stomach as big as a keg of Guinness sang, and hosted the show. I got out after an hour (I had to get my cover charges worth of entertainment). The next pub was no better. The two girls and guy (old enough to be their dad) were not smiling or even enthusiastic, as they played their trad music. They actually brought me down. I ended up that the Beer Garden which is an outdoor courtyard (w/stage) surrounded by two bars. I finally got to hear some good music. Unfortunately, they finished up at 11:30 PM, so I only caught the end of the show. As I search for some down home traditional sessions, I'd probably be better off in a rural area. I went home drunk.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

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